STICKY BUSINESS
"Saveur" No. 39

It may not surprise you to learn that there is a restaurant in New York City devoted entirely to peanut butter. Where else would such an establishment be located, if not in the Metropolis of Trend? But Lee Zalben, the 26-year-old founder of Peanut Butter & Co., in Greenwich Village, says trendiness has nothing to do with it. "The peanut butter sandwich spans every generation," he muses. "Senior citizens, college students, moms with kids-we get everyone in here, and they all have a favorite peanut butter sandwich from childhood." With this in mind, he serves a dozed different ones, from classics like the Fluffernutter (peanut butter with marshmallow Fluff) and the Elvis (a grilled variation of the King's recipe) to such innovations as the Black Forest (chocolate peanut butter, cherry jam, and shredded coconut) and the Spicy Thai (spicy peanut butter, grilled chicken, and pineapple jam). Bread slices are larger than average-to evoke that "little hands" feeling, says Zalben-and all sandwiches are served with carrot sticks and potato chips.

The restaurant's lunchroom-like atmosphere caters to the inner child as well, with Windsor chairs, plain wood tables, and sunny yellow walls lined with shelves of vintage peanut butter kitsch-peanut-emblazoned lunch boxes, and such. The peanut butter itself however, is no-nonsense: "We use our own special blend of peanuts, selected for taste, texture, and natural sweetness," says Zalben, "and we grind the peanut butter fresh every day." Celebrating its one-year anniversary this month, Peanut Butter & Co. already plans a line of peanut butter foodstuffs, cookbooks, a catalogue, and franchises in other cities. Clearly, peanut butter can be serious business. Still, admits Zalben, "It is funny to see a grown man in a suit order his peanut butter sandwich with the crusts cut off."

-- Catherine Whalen